(CONTEMPORARY CLASSICS FROM PARIS)—Kenzo shows a unique approach to the fall look, adapting Paris’ soft fabrics and colors to the striking new silhouette of his balloon dress (left), while Cacharel redefines the soft wool jersey dress with a rich cowl neck and an easy-belted waist (right). Muted color and icy pastels are the latest Paris color messages.
Fall fashion is soft, layered
Paris combines classic and fantasy
September 9, 1977
Paris fashion this year is, as always, a lively and delightful contradiction, a mixture of classic design and brilliant new inspiration, subtlety and outrageous fantasy as flirtatious, scintillating and totally captivating as Paris itself.
The collections for fall/winter ’77 show everything from ultra-romantic designs reminiscent of 18th century opulence to futuristic-looking balloon dresses, pants, clean-lined and alive with color.
Skirts are supple, full dirndls, in keeping with the general ’77 theme of soft, fluid movement.
Skirt lengths vary, some staying below the knee as in the American collections, others (such as Kenzo’s creations) ranging in length from one to five inches above the knee.
Whatever the length of the skirts and dresses may be, legs are shown off as an important fashion accessory, whether sleeked into colorful tights, snuggled into heavy knit stockings in bright colors and patterns, or eased into boots of satin or leather trimmed with fringe.
Almost every designer from Yves St. Laurent to Kenzo, Castelbajac, Hechter—and especially Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe—has fallen in love with the collar.
We see it overflowing into voluminous cowls, tying up Pierrot-style, falling all the way to the shoulder in soft folds, or wrapping around gracefully into bows.
All-American sports clothes have been translated into Paris high fashion in “Les Trainings,” collections of sweatsuits, sweatshirts, and other traditional athletic gear modified for chic street and leisure wear.
“Les Trainings” feature sweatsuit looks everywhere with drawstring tops and pant cuffs, always with a vest—either quilted or designed with fleece outside for a new, richly textured look.
The ski jacket is turned into large, puffy down-filled parkas. “Les Trainings” introduce Paris’ latest color news with icy pastel shades of blue, coral, rose and shrimp for winter wear.
The layered look is still “on top” in outerwear. Coats are hooded and accented with knit caps and hats and piles of scarves and shawls around the face and wrapped around the shoulders down to the waist.
Sweaters are very important to the new Paris look. They have a definite soft touch, with mohair, angora and the brushed knits leading the yarn selection.
There is a strong emphasis on texture seen in the frequent use of cable knits, and especially in the exquisite look of pointelle and honeycomb stitches.
Sweater colorations are truly striking for fall with the introduction of icy pastels.
Sportswear highlights the classic silhouette, as seen in Cacharel’s soft two-piece jersey ensembles with V-necks.
There is a great deal of English influence in this part of the collections, as seen in the frequent use of tweeds and plaids in soft dirndl skirts with genteel silk blouses and man-tailored jackets.
Evenings in Paris this fall and winter are romantic, with Chloe leading the way in a collection of Casanova-inspired lace and silk blouses with portrait collars.
Yves St. Laurent sees sheer drama for nights with glossamer skirts and pants shot with gold and topped with elegant, modified peasant blouses.
A boldly beautiful eveningwear finale comes from Issey Miyake with striking black gowns “cut” with spectacular geometric inserts of pink, green or purple.
Compiled from the archives by Ja'Leigh Cerf.